Getting ready to search for a four-legged family member? One of the biggest questions to answer is whether to bring home a puppy or an adult dog. Here’s a list of things to consider.

Puppy pros:
You get a chance to do it, as Sinatra crooned, your way. A puppy is learning about the world from scratch, and you can give yours the best possible start in life—puppy daycare, puppy socials, lots of training and play, encounters with friendly people, etc.

You can often meet a puppy’s parents, whether online or in the real world. That allows you to judge for yourself if mom and dad possess the qualities you want in a dog. Are they friendly, healthy, playful, outgoing?

Puppy cons:
Despite your best efforts to shape his personality, your puppy might turn out different than you hoped. Hyperactive, for example. Or painfully shy. There are simply no guarantees.

Like small children, puppies need oodles of attention and care. You must house-train yours, teach him manners, see that he’s well socialized, and so on.

Puppies cost more initially. They need vaccinations, new equipment, and bigger beds as they grow.

Adult dog pros:
What you see is what you get. Adult dogs (2+ years) have fully developed personalities, so the dog you meet at the humane society is who you’ll live with. Some dogs with kennel stress only ‘become themselves’ after settling into a new home. But in such cases things often go from good to better: A shy dog gets more confident or a playful dog gets downright frolicsome.

Most adult dogs are either house-trained already or need only a few weeks’ refresher course.

Adult dog cons:
You’ve missed the critical socialization period. Any behavior problems resulting from prior trauma or neglect must be addressed with training and consistency, and may never fully disappear. 

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About the author:

Rikke Jorgensen is a San Francisco-based writer whose work regularly appears in the dog culture magazine, The Bark, the San Francisco SPCA’s magazine, Our Animals, and many other publications. She’s a recipient of the Dog Writers Association of America’s Maxwell Medal for best Magazine Feature.

The truth? Neither. Because it depends. On the genetic characteristics of a certain breed—whether your dog represents one or a whole cocktail. On upbringing and socialization. On the training methods you use. On how much exercise and stimulation your dog gets. On your own personality. At the end of the day, only a handful of general claims can be made about male versus female dogs, and all relate to purely physical traits. For example:

Male
Larger build
Marks more
Prominent genitals
Unless neutered, prone to attacks by neutered males
Unless neutered, prone to roaming 

Female
Smaller build
More expensive to spay
Comes into heat every 6 months unless spayed

Choose your dog based on facts, not prejudice. Really, after breed, age, and environment, the decision to spay/neuter your dog or leave her/him intact is by far the most important factor in determining what kind of dog you end up with. And unless you plan to become a registered breeder, you should always spay or neuter your dog. If you do, you dodge a long list of potential behavioral and physical problems—and by preventing accidental litters, you help stem pet overpopulation and the euthanasia of millions of dogs every year.

Dogs can fly three ways: As carry-on (if the dog is small enough for a carrier that will fit under the seat in front of you); as checked luggage (i.e. on the same plane as you); or as cargo (if unaccompanied). The last two options carry the greatest risks. (If your itinerary allows, use Pet Airways, where dogs travel in the main cabin.)

If travel by plane is unavoidable, take the following precautions to ensure a safe journey for your dog.

1. Visit your veterinarian for a health check-up and to ensure all vaccinations are up-to-date. Don’t fly with dogs that are ill, suffer from severe kennel stress, are younger than eight weeks, or are short-nosed (pugs, Boston terriers, Pekingese). Short-nosed dogs can’t breathe well at high altitude.

2. Cut down on the length of travel and exposure to extreme temperatures. Whenever possible, book a direct flight. This decreases the likelihood of your pet being lost in transfer or spending time on the tarmac in harsh weather. During summer months, book early morning or late evening flights to avoid the worst of the heat.

3. Use only USDA-approved shipping crates. Write ‘Live Animal’ in one-inch letters on the top and sides of the crate. Draw arrows that clearly show UP and DOWN. Label the crate with your name, full contact details, and details of your dog’s destination. Tape a photo of your dog to the crate.

4. Line the crate with shredded paper or towels, then use warm bedding on top. Include a well-worn piece of your clothing to soothe your dog. Firmly close the crate door, but never lock it—in case of an emergency, airline personnel must be able to get your dog out.

5. Freeze water in a deep bowl and put in the crate (unfrozen water might spill before take-off) or use a no-spill travel bowl. For longer flights, also tape a bag of food to the outside of the crate along with a feeding schedule, so airline personnel can feed your dog. 

6. Arrive up to two, but no more than four, hours before your departure time. Feed and water your dog within four hours of departure.

Resources:

USDA’s page on travel with pets: http://www.aphis.usda.gov/animal_welfare/pet_travel/pet_travel.shtml 
US-wide veterinarian hospital locator: www.healthypet.com 
Pet Airways: www.petairways.com

Hire a dog walker who uses science-based, humane training methods and humane equipment. Keeping a group of dogs safe and under control takes skill and experience, not choke, prong, or shock collars, citronella spray, water spray, intimidation, or physical punishment.

Education/training.
At a minimum, your dog walker should have Canine First Aid certification. Ideally, she should also be trained in canine learning theory and body language. You want someone who sees and defuses conflicts over toys, space, and found objects before fights have a chance to break out. Walkers who have gone through a dog trainer program often fulfill this requirement.

Safe pack management.
Small groups. The recommended number is around 6 dogs. One person can’t adequately supervise many more dogs than that, and every additional dog increases the risk of fights breaking out or the walker being overwhelmed in a stressful situation.

Good pack composition.
Dogs should be walked with others of similar size; big dogs with other big dogs, etc. Additionally, dogs in a walking pack should be matched for play style and temperament. A dignified, older bulldog may not enjoy the company of an adolescent Golden Retriever, and perhaps the young guy would get more out of his walks with a playmate that matches his energy level. There are no hard and fast rules, though. Pack composition is complicated, and a good dog walker will be guided by the safety and enjoyment of the individual dogs.

Professionalism.
A professional dog walker runs a business and it should show. Look for someone who:

Is licensed, insured, and, if the business has employees, bonded.
Uses a proper service contract.
Has emergency protocols in case of a car accident or natural disaster.

In portraits, try to capture little markers of your dog’s character. The way his fur folds, his frog-leg sleeping style, the penguin toy that’s never far from his reach. Also, plan your photo shoot for after a good, long walk. Tired dogs are much more willing to sit still or hold a pose.

For any type of photo session, use treats, happy talk, or tongue clicking to direct your dog’s attention.

A few specifics:

For indoor, studio-style portraits.

Photograph your dog against a white (or other light-colored) background. Sheets or big pieces of paper or cardboard work well.

For fun, different portraits.

Set your camera to macro or close-up mode and use a wide-angle lens or, if you have one, a fish eye lens. This will create strange, off-kilter effects that can come out really well.

For outdoor portraits.

Wait until your dog sleeps or rests, and get close. Crouch or lie down if necessary. Work in subdued lighting: early morning, dusk, or in the shade of trees or bushes.

For action shots.

Use Sports or Action mode, a film with a high ISO setting, and a telephoto lens. Then fire away without flash.

Medium-sized dogs are preferable. Large dogs can unintentionally knock children over. Small dogs are more easily overwhelmed by noise and activity, and are more easily injured.

Avoid herding and guard dog breeds. Not a hard-and-fast rule. But herding breeds nip at the heels of creatures that run, and kids tend to run a lot. And guard dog breeds require advanced training and handling skills on their owners’ part to be safe dogs; they feature prominently in the statistics of serious bite incidents involving children.

Puppies are not ideal. We like to imagine puppies and kids frolicking together. In reality, it’s not an ideal match. Puppies chew on everything, including kids’ fingers and clothes, and can get far too boisterous when play gets wild. And children don’t yet have the patience, attention span, and consistency of behavior puppies need to grow up into well-behaved adult dogs.

Look For A Dog That:

Has a calm, easygoing personality.

Shows a marked preference for and enjoyment of physical contact.

Is young enough not to mind children’s energy level.

Is old enough not to get too amped up by children’s play.

What to avoid? Dogs with any type of anxiety, for the sake of both your children and the dog.

Before You Jump

Before getting a family dog, ask yourself whether your child is ready. You can read every breed book in the library, get a terrific family dog, and train and socialize him thoroughly, but if your child doesn’t have sufficient impulse control yet to interact appropriately with a dog then it’s better to wait.

A dog biting a child is a tragedy for everyone involved—don’t let it happen to your family.

A Last Word

Whichever dog you choose, remember that there’s no such thing as a completely child-safe dog. Always supervise dogs and children, however mellow the dog and however dog-savvy the child.

Be extra vigilant about socialization. Urban dogs meet strangers – human and canine – on cramped sidewalks and in parks every day. For everyone’s safety and for your dog’s quality of life, you need to socialize your city dog thoroughly to all kinds of people, dogs, and situations.

Don’t skimp on exercise. A stroll around the block three times a day is not enough. Dogs need daily vigorous workouts to be happy and healthy, even if the nearest park is the size of a stamp. If necessary, hire a dog walker or enroll your dog in a doggie daycare (if he enjoys other dogs).

Teach your dog not to bark. Be kind to your neighbors. Provide your dog with ample exercise and stimulation so he doesn’t become a boredom barker. And if your dog is naturally more vocal, consult a trainer about how to put Fido’s barking on cue, so you can control it.

Take a dog training class or hire a trainer. Good advice for any dog owner; a must for urbanites. A well-trained dog is a much better and happier city companion, able to navigate sidewalks, sit for greetings, wait at the curb, come when called at the park, and so on.

Clean up after your dog. Likewise a decree that applies to all dog owners, but all the more so to cosmopolites. Most big cities have hefty fines for failing to scoop, and both environmental concerns and common decency demand extra vigilance of city folks in this area.

Step 2. Call local animal shelters, pet hospitals, and Animal Care & Control. Also call the police, especially if there were witnesses to the theft of your dog and you have details to share about the thief – description, license plate number, etc. But don’t expect the police to do much on the spot. Legally speaking pets are property, so the police have to follow the procedure for, say, a stolen bicycle or car.

Step 3. Create a poster. Keep it simple with a big headline, a recent photograph, and two telephone numbers for people to contact. Keep one detail about your dog’s appearance secret, and use that to filter calls from people falsely claiming to have found your dog. Offer a reward if you can, but again, beware of scammers. Never pay a reward until you’re literally handed your dog.

Step 4. Distribute your poster across the neighborhood. Don’t just put up a few; really plaster the area closest to where the dog theft occurred. Try to reach a perimeter of up to 5 miles—ask others to help. Good places to put your poster: Community centers, churches, local schools, fire departments, veterinarians’ offices, grocery stores, restaurants, gas stations, cafés, and dog parks.

If you use social media, ask your online network to spread the word, too. Other online options include putting up your dog’s photo and description on the following sites:

www.findfido.com

www.petfinder.com

www.missingpet.net

But people who have lost pets often report that practical preparation was helpful to them—or that they wish they had been better prepared, better armed to make decisions.

Take euthanasia. If it came to that, would you want a home death for your dog? Perhaps in a favorite spot in the yard? If so, does your vet do home calls? Or, if you prefer the vet’s, where and how would the procedure take place? Some clinics have a quiet room dedicated to euthanasia with softer lighting, flowers, and fountains. And afterward, do you want your dog to be buried or cremated? Painful as such questions are—and easy to put off if you have a young, healthy dog—advance planning can also help make your dog’s death as free from pain and stress as possible.

Grief is not species-specific. And yet people who have lost their dogs commonly report a lack of understanding for the mourning they go through. If you find yourself feeling isolated, consider joining a pet loss support group. They exist around the country, and some have hotlines or online communities that give people an immediate place to share their feelings.

Here are some resources to explore:

Websites

Articles about end-of-life care for animals, pet loss, the stages of grief, contact details for pet loss support groups, as well as information about and links to pet cemeteries, cremations, and memorials.

Association for Pet Loss And Bereavement

PetLossHelp.com

Pet Loss & Bereavement section of the Delta Society’s website

Grieving The Loss of Your Pet on Dumb Friend’s League website

End-of-Life-Care FAQ on the ASPCA’s website

In Home Pet Euthanasia Directory

Books

Dr. Betty Carmack, R.N., Ed.D., Grieving the Death of a Pet

Moira Anderson, M.Ed, Coping With Sorrow On The Loss of Your Pet

Herbert A. Nieburg and Arlene Fischer, Pet Loss: A Thoughtful Guide for Adults and Children

David Congalton, Three Cats, Two Dogs: One Journey Through Multiple Pet Loss

Books For Children

Fred Rogers, When A Pet Dies 

Cynthia Rylant, Dog Heaven

Jofi. One of psychologist Sigmund Freud’s many dogs, a sweet-tempered Chow-Chow, who became a fixture at his sessions with patients during the 1930s. Freud recorded in his notes the remarkable difference the dog’s presence made, particularly to his work with children and adolescents. Uncommunicative patients spoke more readily; painful memories were more easily recounted. He put it down to dogs’ ability to project “affection without ambivalence,” and his notes on the subject served as inspiration for the subsequent training and use of dogs in human therapy.

Laika. The first animal to travel into space, Laika, a terrier-mix stray, was the sole passenger on Sputnik 2, which launched on November 3, 1957. Scientists of that time doubted humans could survive the launch into space and thought animal tests a necessary precursor to human spaceflight. Sputnik 2 was non-retrievable, so Laika’s journey was known to be one-way. Until 2002, however, the Russians claimed she was euthanized once she successfully entered orbit around the Earth. The sad truth is that she died from overheating within hours of the launch—and the least we space-age humans can give her in return is a permanent place in the annals of our history. 

Charlie. John F. Kennedy was a lifelong dog lover, and his favorite was the rascally Welsh terrier, Charlie. Though famously boisterous, Charlie owes his place in the history books to his calming influence on the President during the 1962 Cuban missile crisis. A staff member described the chaos in the Oval office at the height of the crisis: Aides running, phones ringing. War seemed to loom. Then the President asked for Charlie. After petting the dog for a long time, JFK reportedly said, “I suppose it’s time to make some decisions.” What passed between him and his dog remains unknown, but he went on to defuse the situation, and most likely prevented a nuclear conflict.